The AeroGarden is one of the simplest and easiest ways to get started with hydroponics. The rest of this page will describe in detail the aerogarden appearance and functionality. Additional links on this site will eventually describe a variety of systems, and cover detailed instructions on how to build a system yourself that suits your needs. The seed pods are prepackaged, so the only maintenance required is to fill up with water every two weeks, and throw in two nutrient tablets. The bulbs will need to be replaced every 6 months to maximize growth. The AeroGarden monitors all of this and will blink its lights to indicate some care is needed.

The AeroGarden after unpacking and setup: The model used in this description is the AeroGarden Pro 200. It was chosen because of the ability for the light to extend high above the base, as seen in the following image. The system was a breeze to set up, I can not understand how anyone would have any difficulties with something like this.

The seeds come in their own box, prearranged as they should be in the Aerogarden. The individual seed pods house the grow sponge, which is brown in appearance and looks very much like a sponge made of dirt. There are certainly a wide variety of hydroponic growing mediums available from third party vendors. More to come on this topic later on. The pod which houses the grow sponge is probably worth keeping though, as the diameter and height of the medium with respect to the water reservoir is somewhat important. The seeds appear to be glued in place near the top of the seed opening in the grow sponge, which is only about 1/4 inch deep. I would imagine if planting your own plants, you could just drop them in the hole. If they are of the slow germinating variety, it may pay to glue them using some sort of non-toxic glue to the top of the grow sponge to avoid any mildew or rot from starting under the moist conditions that are ideal for germination. Once the seeds are planted, place one of these domes over the top to keep the moisture level up. These domes also came with the kit, and are probably worth keeping. The finished seed pods can now be placed in the grow surface.

The grow surface appears to basically be a table at first glance, with obvious holes cut in the top for the seed pods. A closer inspection reveals a sponge-like filter material at the base, which filters particles from the water sucked in by the circulating pump. This pump is what actually delivers the water and nutrients to your plant roots, and appears to be located in the central support. The water is drawn up from the central base of the stand and is distributed with a network of channels attached to the underside of the growing surface.

A small spout is clearly visible, and when operational, is where the nutrient-rich water solution is delivered directly to each seed pod. The rate of water flow is steady when on, and comparable to a small constant trickle from your faucet. Look at the image for a good idea of what I am referring to. The same is true for each seed pod.

AeroGarden Lights

The AeroGarden Pro 200 uses three compact fluorescent bulbs (CFL) with a full spectrum output, which closely mimics the natural sunlight found outdoors. The reflector in the lamp hood directs a majority of the light down towards the plants. Each bulb is rated for 26 Watts and outputs 1560 lumens, and the total output is 78 watts and 4680 lumens over an area of approximately 16×9 inches or 1 square foot. The bulbs do have a specialized socket likely intended to prevent users from purchasing less expensive bulbs from a third party supplier. There are similar bulbs available from third parties, but the cost savings doesn’t really justify the risk, they are only 20-25% cheaper, and would need to be shipped in, when the standard AeroGarden bulbs can probably be picked up locally. If you are still interested check out the Lights of America website, and look at their replacement bulbs; model number 9024B was intended for some sort of desk light and looks pretty similar. If anyone has any success, please let me know.

The lights are on a timer, and are on approximately 18 hours, and off for 6, which does vary slightly from different types of plants as well as through the plant’s growing cycle. The herb setting will keep the lights on for an 18/6 schedule for germination, and will switch to a 17/7 schedule as the plants mature, which is the ideal setting for herbs. The frequency which the pump turns on also changes. For the herb setting, the pump moves water through the seed pods 12 hours a day, while the lights are on. There are 6 hours each day when the lights are on, but the pump is not running. As the plants mature they will need more water and nutrients, so the pump will run continuously during the initial growth and mature growth phases. The Pro 200 does allow for a 24-hour setting, allowing the lights and pump to be constantly on, to maximize growth, called the Super Grow setting. There is a switch on the control panel to allow for manual manipulation of the lights. They will resume their schedule (on or off) at the next regularly programmed time. The system puts off a fair amount of light, and would not be suitable in most people’s bedrooms. It does make a good night strong night light in the kitchen or bathroom. Power to the lights is supplied from the base via a standard figure 8 cord, which allows a great deal of flexibility. A standard light timer could be used to control the on/off times for the lights, and according to the manual, the pump will not operate if the lights are off. The control duration the lights and/or pump are on overtime, so in order to replicate that your timers should be adjusted occasionally as needed.

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Aeroponics is extremely efficient in the use of both water/nutrients and energy, and for this reason, has been investigated by NASA as a means of producing plants in space, and potentially on the surface of the moon and/or mars. It generally is not well suited to commercial production of fruit-producing plants such as tomato, cucumber, and peppers; it is however well suited for herbs, lettuce, and strawberries. Basil might be the most popular example of widely available, aeroponically grown produce. Aeroponics is the preferred method to grow herbs when the roots are the harvested portion. It also is particularly useful in the propagation of plants from cuttings (cloning), some difficult to clone plants produce very good results in an aeroponic system. Because of the hardware investment and time required for maintenance, aeroponic growing has relatively few commercial applications. Aeroponics is brought to the average consumer in an automated prepackaged form marketed under the name AeroGarden (see page for detailed description).

It is the lack of a growing medium that distinguishes aeroponics from other forms of hydroponics. The roots are typically suspended in a closed or semi-closed environment, and are periodically bathed in a mist or fog based nutrient solution. The mist provides all of the water and nutrients for the plant to thrive. One of the attractive growing features of aeroponics is that the roots are constantly suspended in the air, and therefore are continuously exposed to ample quantities of oxygen. The roots should be exposed to oxygen something like 99% of the time.

The first factor influencing the effectiveness of an aeroponic system is the droplet size. Small droplets tend to stick to the roots better, allowing the plant to absorb the nutrients it needs; large droplets have a tendency to coalesce and fall to the reservoir below, and restrict oxygen to the root system. A very fine mist will produce excessive root hair without developing a lateral root system required for sustained growth. The droplets of nutrient solution are can be made using sprayers, misters, foggers, or ultrasonic nebulizers. The droplets are typically formed by forcing the stream of liquid through a small nozzle. The smaller the nozzle opening, the smaller the droplets. Greater pressure is required for smaller nozzles though, and particles dissolved in the solution could clog very small nozzles, or leave deposits on the ultrasonic foggers. NASA funded research has determined that high pressure mist of 5-50 micrometer droplets are necessary for long term aeroponic growth.

The second significant factor influencing the effectiveness of an aeroponic system is the frequency of the misting. The combination of droplet size and misting frequency are correlated. In most applications, a compromise is made to accommodate a larger droplet size in order to take advantage of using a lower pressure. Plants with a large leaf surface area could wilt even under a continuous fine mist sprayed on their roots. For this reason, a shallow pool of nutrient solution is typically allowed to collect at the bottom of the chamber where the tips of the roots can likely uptake sufficient water to keep them from wilting.

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Weeds

Weeds, without a doubt, will limit production in your garden. They compete with your vegetables for water, nutrients, and sunlight. The easiest way to control weeds is to keep up with them and pull them or turn them into the garden soil before they develop seed and spread throughout your garden. They are easiest to remove when they are small or when the soil is moist. If hoeing or tilling in the garden, be sure to stay shallow to avoid damaging the roots of the vegetables.

Mulching

Mulch helps to control weeds and also to retain moisture. Black plastic can be used as a mulch, and will absorb the sunlight and speed up the warming of the garden soil. Apply the black plastic in strips after your garden soil has been prepared for planting. You can use soil to weigh down the edges and either cut slits in the plastic for the plants or use a bulb setter to cut holes in the plastic. Organic mulches also work well. Common organic mulches are leaves, straw, compost, sawdust, and grass clippings. If using grass clippings and leaves, be careful not to add weeds to the garden. Apply organic mulches 2-3 inches thick as they often reflect the sunlight due to their light color. They work best later in the year when the ground is warmed up or around plants that do well in colder weather. Garden centers carry many different varieties of mulching materials, many of which are biodegradable so that they can be turned into the soil at the end of the growing season.

Disease and Insect Control

Vegetable plants are susceptible to a wide variety of pests and diseases, which left untouched will limit the production and quality of your harvest, and could result in no vegetables at all. Keep a close eye on your vegetable plants to be sure to spot problems as soon as they arise. A small number of insects can sometimes be manually removed or hosed off. If you see a plant that looks to be diseased, remove it from your garden after harvest and be sure not to keep any seeds from a diseased plant. Do not crowd plants in the garden, and be sure to stake up tall heavy vegetable plants. Avoid watering your plants in the late afternoon, as wet plants are more susceptible to disease. When watered in the morning while the plants are already moist, they will dry during the morning hours as they naturally do every day.

Irrigation

Vegetable plants require approximately 1 to 2 ½ inches of water per week, depending on the plant and its size. Vegetables need less water when they are small and more when they become larger. During dry periods, be sure to irrigate with your garden hose. It may be a good idea to place a rain gauge in your garden to help monitor the amount of water your plants are getting.

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• They smell great
• Good source of N
• Coffee grounds used as mulch will help reduce slugs and snails
• Great food for worms and worm farms
• Available in large quantities for free from Starbucks – Thanks!!

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The most practical place to create a compost pile is in the corner of the garden where it is readily available. Organic matter is piled up and left for approximately 6 months or until decomposed. The end product is like “gold for your garden,” added to the soil to improve fertility and the soil’s ability to retain moisture.

Having your own compost pile is most economical when you use available materials to make it. These materials include leaves, dead plant materials, grass clippings, herbivore animal manures, and kitchen garbage. Never put meat and fats in the compost as they attract wild animals. One of the most consistently available ingredients for your compost is kitchen waste including fruit and vegetable peels, eggshells, and coffee grounds to name a few. Usually there is no need to purchase special compost ingredients, although baled, spoiled hay, for those who live in rural areas is a favorite, easy to use material and is usually not too expensive. Many gardeners keep a bale of hay next to the compost pile and cover the garbage with a pitchfork full of hay.

The fall is a good time to start a compost pile because there is an abundance of materials. If properly cared for, the compost pile will decompose and be ready for use in your garden by late spring or early summer of the following year.

Size:

A compost pile can be a small pile and can become as large as you are willing to manage. Attaching chicken wire to four corner posts will help keep your compost pile more manageable. You can also attach pieces of wood instead of chicken wire, which will hold in the warmth and allow for faster decomposition. A recommended size for the average gardener is a pile at least 3’ X 3’ X 3’.

Location:

It’s most convenient to keep your compost pile near your garden, but this is not always practical due to factors such as the amount of space available. Compost is easily transferable with a wheelbarrow and can be located anywhere in your yard. The location should be level with good drainage, as standing water will inhibit bacterial growth. If possible, avoid direct sunlight and areas exposed to strong winds, which can dry out and cool the pile. A partly sunny location is ideal as long as it receives sufficient rainfall. If located near trees, you may want to consider setting a basic foundation for your compost out of brick or stone to keep roots from growing up into your compost seeking moisture and nutrients. In general, a compost pile should be kept open and moist to avoid bacteria that can cause foul odors. A well-ventilated compost pile will decay more rapidly.

Ingredients:

Keep in mind your compost pile needs to remain balanced. Too much of any one ingredient, such as leaves or grass clippings, will not make for the best compost. A mixture of different materials will help air circulate and provide both carbon and nitrogen. Most professionals recommend a mix of 2/3 carbon-containing materials and 1/3 nitrogen-containing materials. Carbon-containing materials include straw, spoiled hay, wood chips, sawdust, leaves, chopped cornstalks, pine needles, and shredded newspapers. Nitrogen-containing materials include dead plants, grass clippings, weeds, manures, kitchen vegetable waste, and soil layers. Avoid putting meat scraps or fat into the compost, as well as diseased plant materials or those that might harbor insects over the winter, particularly rose foliage (black spot), iris (iris borer), and cabbage (clubroot). Perennial plants and invasive weeds can be a nightmare, as the seeds may not always decompose. Also if you treat your lawn with a weed killer or any type of chemicals, the first two or three rounds of grass clippings should be kept out of the compost, as the smallest amount of weed killer can kill a tomato plant. For more specific information relating to common compost ingredients please see the chart below:

Compost table

How do I know when my compost is ready for use?

Compost is ready for use when it smells earthy and has a rich brown appearance. There may still be some big pieces of organic matter in the pile that haven’t fully decomposed and a sieve (2-inch screen) may be useful for removing these pieces for further composting. Compost can be added to the soil anywhere you plan to plant such as the vegetable garden, flowerbeds, or shrubbery borders. To add the compost, simply rake the material on in layers and work into the soil until you’ve reached a thickness of about 2-3 inches. It is important to use the compost when it’s ready, as it’s not stable and will not last for long periods of time. Once the compost has been added to your garden year after year, the soil should become easily workable and fertile, and will hold soil moisture extremely well. If this level of soil is reached, you are sure to have a hearty harvest! Another benefit of using compost in your garden is the presence of earthworms. Earthworm tunneling helps aeration and their castings help to make the soil more granular, especially topsoil. Earthworms also have some influence on nutrient availability.

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Understanding how the soil provides for plants will enable you to decide what you need to do: whether or not you need to dig, what you can add to your soil to improve it, and whether it needs lime or additional fertilizers. Get this right, and you’ll have a successful harvest.

Soil Management

Good soil management is key to any garden. No matter how poor the soil may be at the start, proper management will gradually create a productive soil. Soil is comprised of four main ingredients – minerals, organic matter, water, and air. In the average soil, the mineral component is about 50% of the volume, air, and water about 20-25%, and organic content is as low as 5%. Notice that nearly half of the soil is “space,” which is occupied by water and air. These spaces are also filled with the soil’s thriving populations of plants and animals which break down plant and animal residue into organic matter or humus. The worms and insects initiate the physical breakdown, while the microscopic bacteria and fungi complete the decomposition process, releasing nutrients as a by-product.

The ideal soil is crumbly, well-aerated, porous material that holds moisture and yet drains well, and is nutritious for plant growth. The way to improve the soil structure is to rearrange the particles. Organic matter is the tool. To review briefly, soil particles come in three sizes: clay (small), silt (medium), and sand (large). The function of the largest particles is chiefly as a framework for the smaller ones; they merely keep the soil porous. Clay and organic matter are the soils charged particles utilized for ion exchange. If the soil is sandy, the addition of generous quantities of organic matter will fill in the framework of sandy soils, to give water molecules something to hang on to. If the soil is heavy clay, again, the addition of generous quantities of organic matter provides the glue to aggregate the minute clay particles into larger particles. The larger the particles, the bigger the pore spaces, and the better the soil aeration. Organic material is your friend when trying to improve your soil conditions. You may want to consider making a compost pile so you can use your biodegradable wastes to make food for your garden.

Identifying Your Soil

The best garden soil is loam, made up of a mixture of sand, silt, and clay. A quick and easy test to determine your type of soil:

• Moisten a pinch of soil and rub it between your thumb and index finger. Sandy soil feels gritty, silty soil feels slippery, and clay soil feels sticky.
• Try molding a handful of moist soil into a ball. If it falls apart, it’s sandy; if it molds easily into a ball, it contains a lot of clay. If you can give the ball of soil a polish with your thumb, there’s an even higher proportion of clay.
• You could also try mixing some of your soil in a clear drink bottle and then shake it up. Set in on the table and wait for everything to settle. The sediment will eventually settle in layers, and you can determine the proportions of silt, clay, and organic matter in the soil.

Sandy soil is quick to warm up in spring, is light and easy to manage, and is rarely waterlogged. However, it is a hungry, thirsty soil because water and dissolved nutrients drain through it before plants can use them. A heavy clay soil remains cold for longer in spring, and it is difficult to dig. It soon becomes waterlogged and airless in wet weather, yet it can bake rock hard in droughts. However, clay soil usually contains adequate quantities of vital plant nutrients.

Nutrients

While plants make their food with the energy from sunlight, they need nutrients to make this happen. When dissolved in soil moisture, these nutrients are taken up by the roots. There are three major nutrients, nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium – often abbreviated with their chemical symbols of N, P, and K. In general, nitrogen helps with leafy growth, phosphorous helps provide root development, and potassium encourages fruit and flowers. Other mineral nutrients needed in smaller quantities are calcium, sulfur, and magnesium, plus trace elements, which include iron, boron, copper, manganese, molybdenum, and zinc.

Vegetable pH Preferences

Most vegetables prefer soil between 6.5 and 7.0, but the following types will tolerate soil with higher levels of acid (below 6.0) or alkaline (above 7.0)

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Greenhouse gardening is not necessarily a luxury, as we develop and populate more and more of the land, we will need to move our gardening indoors in order to sustain our agricultural production. Greenhouse growers can produce a significant amount of crops from a small space, and can do so all year round. Gardening in a greenhouse also enables the gardener to grow crops that would not typically be grown in the area or to grow summer crops all year long for example. Imagine growing your own bananas in a cold zone 4 climate, for instance. A greenhouse could be attached to your home, or freestanding, it could have its own heat, plumbing, and electrical, or it could simply be some plastic wrapped around some sort of frame, much like many nurseries use to start their plants a little earlier than mother nature intended. In any event, you are sure to increase your harvest with a greenhouse. Here are a few things to consider when thinking about a greenhouse.

Temperature

Temperature (of the soil) is a major factor in determining plant growth. It controls the mechanism that allows minerals and nutrients to be absorbed from the soil. Greenhouses are heated passively by the infrared radiation that comes naturally off the sun, and typically insulated to minimize heat loss from convection (the greenhouse is sealed up, to keep drafts down). This passive heating is often enough to provide sufficient heat for growing in the winter months, even in the colder zones 5/4/3 for growing those vegetables that can tolerate some cold. In these climates, heat-loving vegetables will likely require some sort of supplemental heat. A greenhouse will also typically have some vents or windows to allow air to ventilate once the ideal temperature is exceeded. There are automatic controls for this, but two vents with a fan if necessary will likely get the job done with much less complexity and cost. Supplemental heat in the winter can be achieved with a standard electric heater, but remember it is more efficient to heat only the soil by using some sort of heat mat made for that purpose. Greenhouses aren’t nearly as well insulated as even an old house, so the energy required to heat a greenhouse could be significant.

Winter Growing

Several varieties of vegetables can be harvested in the winter months in a greenhouse with little supplemental heat. Most varieties of lettuce, spinach, chard, kale, broccoli, cabbage, Brussels sprouts, carrots, turnips, beets, and other cold-tolerant plants will continue to grow right through winter in a closed greenhouse. The clear greenhouse walls will allow the sun to warm the temperature well above freezing during the day, and it will drop to something close to freezing during the night; for this reason, it may be better to leave the heat-loving plants (tomatoes, peppers, squash, etc) for all but the coldest few months of winter. The natural daylight hours are the shortest in winter, so expect your vegetables to take slightly longer to fully mature. Plan on starting them a few weeks early to harvest during the winter.

Location and Orientation

Consider the greenhouse’s proximity to your main living area. If you have to wade through or shovel 1/2 mile of waist-high snow to get to your greenhouse in the middle of winter, you might reconsider the idea altogether. Placing the greenhouse as close as possible to your main living area will probably help to maximize its efficiency. This will also make it easier to supply water/electricity if that will be needed for your greenhouse. Other locations to avoid are those that might increase the likelihood of damage to the greenhouse panels/film. Maybe that spot next to the kid’s practice baseball field, or under that giant sycamore tree that is constantly dropping branches is not the best location.

The greenhouse should be orientated in a way that will maximize the sunlight. There are two basic schools of thought on greenhouse orientation. A greenhouse orientated to capture the morning sun (North/South orientation) will help to stimulate growth, remove condensation from leaves early in the day, and get your plants off to a good start for the day. This method is popular with those who use a greenhouse for summer vegetables. The other basic orientation is to maximize the winter sunlight captured (East/West orientation). The winter sun is much lower in the horizon this time of year, and with careful consideration of both structure and plants, it is possible to harvest vegetables without using a heat source to warm the greenhouse.

All decisions require compromises; if your greenhouse is attached to your house, or otherwise in the shadow of a tree or shrub, you may want to consider adding some supplemental lighting. It can be useful in two basic ways, for one it can offer some high-intensity light if unavailable. It can also increase the natural daylight to improve your growth rates. Many of the traditional light sources put off a significant amount of heat, and may also work as a heat source depending on the ratio of the size of your greenhouse and the number of lights you use.

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1. Density – the medium must be dense enough to anchor the plant roots, and at the same time not so dense that it will impede oxygen/nutrient flow to the roots.
2. Sterile – a clean and sterile growing medium will minimize the spread of both diseases and pests. In addition, the medium should be clean so that it does not introduce additional nutrients to the roots.
3. Porosity – the pieces of medium must stay damp from the nutrient flow long enough for the plant to absorb all of its required nutrients between cycles.
4. Neutral pH – A neutral pH is crucial to the success of the growing system
5. Easy to handle, clean, sterilize, and reusable.

You may be surprised at some of the potential growing mediums used for hydroponic gardening: straw, wood chips, sawdust, peat moss, sand, crushed brick, perlite, coconut fiber, vermiculite, rock wool, clay pellets, glass marbles, sponge, plastic foam scraps, broken dishes or pots, in addition to the wide variety of commercially developed mediums. The selection of the “best” medium depends largely on your environment and situation. The most traditional medium is likely a coarse gravel, probably dating back several thousand years. A fast-draining medium such as Hydroton or expanded shale works well in an ebb and flow system.

The growing medium should be selected so that it will complement the surrounding environment. If for example, in a greenhouse, the humidity is usually relatively high, then the ideal growing medium would be something easily aerated, which would suggest one of the more porous selections.

• Hydroton – is manufactured from clay formed into pellets and fired in a rotary kiln at high temperature. The result is a round, lightweight, porous, clay ball. It is reusable, washable, inert, and pH neutral. They drain freely, and will provide good oxygen levels around the roots. These are well suited for flood and drain systems.
• Rockwool – is produced by melting a combination of rock and sand, and blowing the mixture into a spinning chamber (very similar to the process of making cotton candy). Rockwool can hold 10-14 times more water than soil, and approximately 20% more air, and it could be used as a soil substitute for just about any hydroponic system. It is commonly used to propagate seedlings. It does have a slightly basic pH, some people prefer to soak the medium in water prior to use to minimize this effect. Close monitoring of pH will be necessary to ensure it is within an acceptable range.
• Straw – is self-sterilizing, if you get a bale of hay wet, the center will reach about 160 degrees; which will sterilize it of anything that might be harmful to your plants. You could plant something right in that straw and water with a nutrient solution. If you try this, be sure to use a thermometer capable of getting to the middle of the bale. You will need to cool down the hay bail once it reaches the high temperature, otherwise it will begin to break down. Once it does start to breakdown it is an invitation for a variety of fungus invasions. In hydroponic gardening we want to control as many variables as possible, therefore an inert growing medium is more attractive.

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Plants require a balance of at least 16 nutritional elements. Withhold one vital mineral from the plant and it will stunt its growth in some way. In ordinary gardening, the soil may test well on the necessary nutrients, but some of them may be present but not actually available to the plant in a usable form. Phosphate is commonly found in such a form. In order for the nutrients to do the plant some good, they should be present in a form usable by the plant. This is one of the main advantages of hydroponic gardening. You have complete control and consequently, optimization of the nutrients presented to the plants. Hydroponic nutrients are divided into two basic classifications, macro-nutrients which are required by the plant in large quantities, and micro-nutrients, which the plant only needs small quantities of to thrive.

Generally, there will be additional trace elements, because the salts in which the various nutrients are supplied are not typically in an absolutely pure state. Some nutrients are naturally occurring in your water supply such as sodium or chlorine, but not necessarily in the right proportions. It is very important to have your water tested to ensure a proper balance of nutrients. The nutrients not in your water supply must be added in careful balance in amounts complementary to the existing characteristics of your water supply. Hydroponic suppliers will have a variety of nutrients available in a premixed concentrate, or individual nutrients. To start off, premixed nutrient solutions are a safer bet; as you become more skilled you may want to investigate mixing your own nutrients.

The critical thing to remember is balance. A balanced nutrient solution is delivered to the plant’s roots periodically, and the plant will take what it needs from that solution. The plant has to have all of these nutrients available all of the time. If, for example, the potassium isn’t there, the plant is going to take sodium in its place, which could cause the leaves to burn from an excessive amount of sodium; when the root of the problem is a deficiency of potassium. As another example, molybdenum is one of the required trace elements. The need for it is so minute (0.02 parts per million) that it is a bit dangerous to add it directly to the nutrient solution. If a molybdenum deficiency shows up, it will probably be supplied as an impurity of your other minerals, or the plant can also use the ionic structure of the nitrates to take care of the deficiency. It may be better not to take action.

It is also essential to test the nutrient solution on a routine basis, as well as the plants to see what they are taking up. Generally speaking, nutrient levels should be checked every ten days or so, and pH should be checked every 4-5 days. An alternative to checking the nutrient solution every ten days is to replenish the nutrient solution every ten days to ensure the nutrient balance is correct. The trees and shrubs outside your house will still enjoy the leftover nutrient solution.

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If weeds are not controlled, they compete aggressively with the vegetables in your garden for water, sunlight, and space. Mulches attract our friends the earthworms to the soil, which provides the soil with more nutrients. Mulch also provides insulation, keeping the soil at a relatively uniform temperature. This allows for harvesting root crops well into November in colder regions. Because mulch insulates the soil, it also reduces the evaporation of water from the surface of the soil. Mulch reduces erosion and helps to keep the soil from becoming packed as well as keeps your vegetables clean.

Before applying any mulch to your garden, be sure the garden is weeded and the soil is broken up and moist. It is best to mulch after the garden has been watered to encourage moisture to stay in the soil. In general, mulch is easy to apply, and well worth the effort. Once seeds have germinated or transplants are set out, spread mulch between the rows being careful not to cover the plants. Mulch layers must be thick enough to be effective which depends on the type of mulch you are using. (See below) When choosing a type of mulch, use whatever is cheap and readily available in your area.

Organic Mulches

• Bagasse – Baled crushed sugar cane, a by-product of sugar manufacturing, can be used as mulch where available. It has great water-holding capacity, and should be applied 2-3 inches thick.
• Bark chips – The bark of coniferous trees, is available in sizes from a small nugget to a finer grade. They make an attractive covering that permits easy penetration of rainwater.
• Buckwheat hulls – A lightweight mulch, high in potash, with a warm brown color that is attractive and does not mat. This lasts for 1 to 2 years and does not decompose quickly. Spread at least 2 inches deep. More practical for ornamental plantings, such as rose beds.
• Cocoa bean shells – Similar in quality to buckwheat hulls, these have a decidedly chocolate odor, especially on a warm summer day, that some may find objectionable. The odor wears off in time. Spread at least 2 inches thick. More practical for ornamental shrub borders.
• Coffee Grounds – Used lightly, these can be quite effective. If applied too thickly without being worked into the soil, they may mat and sour. Slightly acidic, if used frequently, add a dusting of lime to the soil where applied.
• Compost – The most widely used mulch material, free for the making and highly beneficial to the soil. Spread at least 2 to 3 inches thick.
• Corncobs (ground) – Ground to a rough texture, corncobs are an excellent, inexpensive mulch material that will eventually decay and add nutrients to the soil. Spread at least 3 inches thick. Because their decomposition requires nitrogen-consuming bacteria, add nitrogen fertilizers, such as cottonseed meal or ammonium sulfate to the soil at the same time.
• Cornstalks (chopped) – If chopped, cornstalks can be used as a late mulch for fall crops, but nitrogen fertilizers must be added to control the nitrogen balance in the soil.
• Grass clippings – An excellent source of nitrogen, used in moderation. For best results, cultivate a layer of 1 or 2 inches into the top of the soil to initiate decomposition. Grass clippings left on the surface mat, cause a bad odor, and form an impenetrable blanket that blocks out the rainfall.
• Leaves – Fall leaves are excellent soil improvers, but tend to blow and decompose slowly if not incorporated into a compost pile. They should be used as a light mulch; thick layers mat and block out rain. Leaves are handiest for mulch if put through a shredder.
• Manures – When there is abundant supply, manures are sometimes used as top mulches. They are best worked into the soil at planting time, where they will do more good.
• Newspapers – An excellent, inexpensive, biodegradable mulch. Approximately 10 overlapping sheets can be put in thick layers, watered down, and weighted with rocks and soil. Though unattractive, newspapers can be covered lightly with other mulch materials to make the garden more appealing. They completely block weed growth. The question of lead leaching into the soil from the newsprint ink has been researched by soil scientists, and their findings show that only negligible amounts leach into the soil, and there is little danger of contamination. However, glossy magazine paper printed with colored inks have high levels of lead and are not recommended for garden mulch.
  In addition, lead was banned as an ingredient in ink by the EPA in 1985 and is, therefore, no longer a threat…Ingestion of inks used on newsprint has not been an issue because the ingredients used in the inks are not considered toxic in either the liquid or dry state.
• Peanut shells – Where available locally, these are lightweight and high in nitrogen. Apply 2 -3 inches thick.
• Peat moss – Although it is attractive, this light, fluffy soil improving product either mats or becomes too light and fluffy to be an effective mulch. It absorbs moisture much needed by the soil, depriving the soil. It is better as a soil improver worked into the ground during preparation for planting.
• Pine needles – usually recommended for acid-loving shrubbery, such as azaleas and rhododendrons, although they do not alter the soil pH, these can be used on the vegetable garden if in great surplus. Strawberry growers especially prefer them.
• Salt hay – Where available, this is an excellent vegetable garden mulch that can be used for several years, as it decomposes slowly. Be sure the mulch is thick enough, 3-6 inches are needed to be effective. Excellent for melons, cucumbers, and unstaked tomatoes, to keep the fruit clean.
• Seaweed – This has been used successfully on seaside gardens with a negligible effect of leached salts. The materials are high in potash. If worked well into the soil it will provide an excellent source of organic matter.
• Spoiled hay – This is hay not fit for stock feed, and usually inexpensive (dealers like to dispose of it). Use as a mulch year-round or spread after the garden has been planted. Apply at least 3 to 6 inches thick. Sometimes hay is a source of weeds to the vegetable garden, depending on when the hay fields were mowed.
• Straw – Another excellent mulch material. As with the other high-carbon mulch materials, add nitrogen fertilizers to replace the nitrogen depletion caused by bacterial action.
• Tea leaves – A fine mulch, high in nitrogen. Work lightly into the soil surface.
• Tobacco stems – High in potash, these may do more harm than good, since they probably carry mosaic virus. Their nicotine content may have some insecticidal value, but may also affect soil bacteria and earthworms.
• Wood chips – Where plentiful near mills and so forth, these are an excellent mulch and can be used freely, but again watch out for nitrogen loss and compensate.

Inorganic Mulches:

• Stones/Gravel – These are semi-permanent mulches. They have some decorative qualities, but are not recommended for vegetable gardens, except maybe pot gardens on patios and penthouses. They do keep the soil cool and keep the moisture in.
• Black plastic mulch – This remarkable innovation in raising vegetables has proved to be a great labor saver and booster for larger and earlier crops. Although it is not especially attractive to see when laid out between garden rows, it is extremely effective.
  Plastic mulch is particularly recommended for crops that have trailing plants with fruit on the ground such as melons, cucumbers, squash, and tomatoes. It is also great for eggplants and peppers. Plastic keeps the fruit clean and overcomes the weeds effectively. The mulch is made of black polyethylene film (1 1/2 mil), and is readily available at garden centers or from mail-ordered catalogs. Colored mulch such as painted plastic, may have other benefits as well; among them raising yields and deterring specific insects. In South Carolina, red mulch increased yields of cowpeas as much as 12 percent over the yields achieved with white or black mulch. Red is also believed to increase tomato yields, particularly early in the season, but has also been found to attract some pests. Orange mulch repels sweet potato whitefly but may attract other pests. Studies at the University of Florida have shown that of all the available colors, red attracts the most whiteflies, blue attracts the most aphids and thrips and white aluminum is the least attractive to all three pests.
  Although plastic mulch appears to be a smothering cover over the soil that would deter plant growth, continual use of plastic in field and garden tests have shown that the mulch has many benefits. Plastic mulch controls weeds, raises the soil temperature, reduces loss of moisture, enhances bacterial activity in the soil, provides better aeration, reduces fertilizer leaching, keeps fruits and vegetables clean and improves growth rate. Plants grow faster because mulch is impermeable to carbon dioxide. Because of this, high levels of carbon dioxide build-up under the plastic, escaping through the planting holes and resulting in a high concentration of carbon dioxide around the base of the plants, encouraging growth.
  Unlike other mulches, plastic mulch must be laid before the plants are in the garden. Be sure to prepare your garden soil properly and water the garden before laying plastic mulch. Because plastic is very light, it’s best to lay it on a calm day. Use soil or rocks to anchor the edges of the plastic. For best weed control, be sure to overlap the plastic when laying a piece for the next row. Once it’s in place, cut holes in the plastic just large enough for the roots of your plants using a trowel, bulb planter, or opened can. Insert the plant into the soil through the hole in the plastic and pack the soil tightly around the roots. Mound the soil around the hole on top of the plastic to keep the wind from catching it. Cut a small slit in the plastic in between each plant to allow for rain penetration. For seeded crops like corn or onions, wait until the seedlings have grown to about 3 inches high and then lay the plastic down in strips between the rows.
  Once your harvest is complete, the plastic can be saved for the following year. Roll it neatly onto an old broom handle and store it in the garage. Never leave the plastic on the soil over the winter.

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