Where to Grow

Basil is a tender half-hardy annual that is susceptible to frost damage. Because of this, it would be ideal for growing it in a pot to be brought indoors during cold weather. It prefers moist, well-drained, rich soil and full sun. It also prefers a climate with moderate temperature extremes, but it tolerates heat better than cold. The first fall frost will kill the plant.

Soil for Basil

Basil needs a well-drained soil that is high in organic matter. It does well in soil that many other plants wouldn’t tolerate; and too-fertile soil is a disadvantage, because it encourages lush foliage but a low oil content, which affects the aromatic quality of the herb. Do not fertilize basil; over-fertilizing is a disadvantage to most aromatic herbs. If the soil is very acidic, sweeten it with some lime. Otherwise, let it be.

Planting Basil

When –

It’s grown from seed or transplants, and you can plant either in spring, a week or two after your area’s average date of last frost. Basil makes a charming houseplant — put it in a sunny window.

How –

It transplants easily and also can be easily grown in a greenhouse. If you grow from seed, sow the seed 1/4 inch deep in rows 18 to 24 inches apart. When the seedlings are growing strongly, thin them to stand 10-12 inches apart. A sunny spot is best, but basil will tolerate light shade. Basil seeds itself and will often produce good plants if the soil is not disturbed too much in the spring. Using transplants in the spring will mean you can harvest your basil sooner. You can also buy a healthy plant from a nursery or farmers’ market stand and plant that. If you want to grow basil indoors, put it in a sunny window or under lights.

Temperature
Germination	75 - 85 F
For Growth	Hot
Soil and Water
Fertilizer	Not Recommended
pH	5.5 - 7.0
Water	Below Average
Measurements
Planting Depth	1/4"
Root Depth	8 - 12"
Height	18 - 24"
Width	20 - 30"
Space between plants
In beds	10 - 12"
in rows	12 - 18"
space between rows	16 - 24"
Companions
Companions	Pepper, tomato
Incompatibles	Cucumber, rue, snap beans
Harvest
Pick continuously before flower buds open, up to 6" below the flower buds or ends to encourage continuous growth. Cut in the morning after the dew has dried. Do not wash the leaves or aromatic oils will be lost.

Storage Requirements
Leaves can be used fresh, dried, or preserved in oil (must be refrigerated) or in vinegar. To dry, find a warm, dry, dark place and hang bunches of snipped stems with leaves, or spread leaves on a wire mesh. When thoroughly dry, strip leaves off stems. Do not crush or grind leaves until you're ready to use them. Store in airtight containers or freezer bags in a dark place. Some people believe that basil stored in oil or vinegar is more flavorful than dried. If storing frozen pesto, don't add garlic until you're ready to serve, because garlic can become bitter in the freezer.
Method	Taste
Fresh	Excellent (particularly for pesto)
Dried	Fair-good (relative to fresh basil)
Frozen	Good

Cultivating Basil

Once established, pick the tops off often, as this will make the plant branch out and produce more leaves and slow down flower production. Continuous harvest benefits this herb because pruning encourages new growth. Unless the plant is pinched back, it becomes tall and leggy. Snip leaves frequently to flavor anything with tomatoes or use with fish and cheese dishes.

Harvesting Basil

Pick the basil as you need it by cutting a few inches off the top. This will encourage the plant to become bushy instead of going to flower. Store the crushed dry leaves in an airtight container in a dark place. You can also freeze the leaves. Studies advise against storing basil in the refrigerator, for it lasts longer when kept in a glass of water at room temperature. You can preserve larger quantities of basil by making pesto.

Basil Pests

None of significant concern.

Basil Diseases

None of significant concern.

Where to Grow Chives

Chives are a perennial warm-season herb, hardy to frost and light freezes and the earliest to appear in the spring. They also thrive in a cool greenhouse or on a kitchen windowsill.

Soil for Chives

This herb likes rich and well-drained soil, but can be found growing wild in dry, rocky places in northern Europe and in the northeastern United States and Canada. Chives prefer sandy soil with plenty of organic matter (this is important for perennial herbs in general) and good drainage. When you’re preparing the soil, dig in a low nitrogen (5-10-10) fertilizer at a rate of 1/2 pound for 100 square feet.

Planting Chives

When –

Chives are hardy and will grow practically anywhere in the united states. They do well in cool weather but can survive almost any extreme temperature swings. Plant either seeds or divisions about 4-6 weeks before your average last frost date. A late frost won’t hurt them.

How –

You can grow chives from seed or divisions of small bulbs separated from clumps. The seeds take a long time to germinate and need a very cool temperature, less than 60F. After their slow start, they grow quickly. Plant seeds 1/2″ deep in rows spaced 12″ apart. The plants can be fairly close together; small clumps (25 plants can be set out 6-8 inches apart in rows. They’ll fill in and make an attractive array.

Cultivating Chives

Chives will take care of themselves without much help from you, but there are a few things you can do to keep them healthy, happy, and productive. Chives will bloom midsummer and offer an attractive ornamental addition to the garden; if allowed to bloom, cut them back after flowering so new shoots will come up in spring. As with any plant, watering is important for good growth. The plants will survive neglect, but if you let the soil dry out, the tips of the leaves —the part you want to eat—will become brown and unappetizing. Thick, overgrown clumps can be divided; split the clumps from time to time. After several years, you can divide them for expansion or renewal. In the fall, dig up a cluster to pot indoors for continuous winter cutting. If you grow chives indoors, grow several pots so you can take turns clipping from them when you need chives for cooking and flavoring.

Temperature
Germination	60 - 70 F
For Growth	Hot
Soil and Water
Fertilizer	Light Feeder
pH	5.5 - 7.0
Water	Average
Measurements
Planting Depth	1/4" - 1/2"
Root Depth	Bulb Clumps
Height	6 - 18"
Width	6 - 8"
Space between plants
In beds	6"
in rows	5 - 8"
space between rows	12"
Companions
Companions	Carrots, Celery, Grapes, Peas, Rose, Tomatoes
Incompatibles	Beans, Peas
Harvest
After the plant is 6" tall, cut some of the blades down to 2" above the ground to encourage plant production. Herbs should be cut in the morning after the dew has dried. Cut near the base of the greenery, not the chive tips, to encourage new tender shoots to emerge. Do not wash the cuttings or aromatic oils will be lost.

Storage Requirements
Chives are best used fresh or frozen, but can also be dried. Tie them in bunches and hand in a dry, well-ventilated area. Store them whole if possible, do not crush them until ready to use.
Method	Taste
Fresh	Excellent
Dried	Fair-good
Frozen	Excellent

Harvesting Chives

You can start snipping chives after 90 days from seed or 60 days from transplanted divisions. Either way, the plants will produce much better the second year. To harvest, it’s usual to just snip the tops off the leaves, but if you harvest from the base, you’ll avoid unattractive stubble. If you’re growing chives on the windowsill or the border of your flowerbed, you may not need to store any — you’ve got a regular supply right there. However, chives can be satisfactorily frozen or dried.

Storage Requirements
Cilantro leaves store poorly unless preserved in something like salsa, but even then its flavor can fade in a day. Coriander seeds, on the other hand keep well in airtight jars. To dry seeds, tie the plant upside down in a warm, dark, dry place for several weeks until the seeds turn brown. Place stalks in a paper bag and thrash until all seeds are removed from the stems. Sift out seeds from the chaff. Another method to finish the drying process is to remove seeds from the stems and dry them in a slow oven (100F) until they turn a light brown. You can smell the difference between a properly air-dried or roasted coriander seed and seed that is still green. For best flavor, grind the seeds just before use. Store seeds in an airtight container in a cool dark place.
Method	Taste
Fresh	Excellent; cuttings last 2-7 days in the fridge
Dried	Fair
Frozen	Excellent for seed, poor for leaf

Harvest

You can pick a cilantro leaves any time after the plants are about six inches tall. Harvest the seeds when they turn a light brown, two to three weeks after flowering. The seeds are small — only an eighth inch in diameter — and are split in half and dried after harvesting. The dried seeds can be stored for months in an airtight container. You can freeze or dry the leaves. All parts of the plant are edible, including the root, which is similar in taste to the leaves but has an added nutty flavor.

Pests

Coriander has no notable pest problems.

Disease

Coriander has no notable disease problems.

Where to Grow Dill

Like most herbs, Dill can be grown pretty much anywhere and can withstand both heat and cool weather. Dill will tolerate partial shade; in light shade, the plants won’t get as bushy as in full sun. They can be planted closer together in partial shade. It can also be grown in the greenhouse if you provide a container large enough for its roots a, at least 6-8 inches in diameter, and pot it in rich soil.

Soil for Dill

Poor, sandy soil is an advantage when you’re growing dill — the herb will have stronger flavor — but the soil must drain well.

Planting Dill

When –

Grow it from seed sown in the spring or fall. Plant the seeds two or three weeks before your average date of last frost in rows two to three feet apart; they germinate quickly. If dill is not planted early enough, the seed may not develop until the beginning of the second year. Once established, dill will seed itself and return year after year.

How –

When the seedlings are growing well, thin them to 12 inches apart. You can also thin dill to form a clump or mass rather than a row. Make sure you know where you want the plants because dill has a relatively long taproot and is not easy to transplant, so don’t attempt to transplant once it grows beyond the seedling stage. Dill is short-lived, so make successive sowings to provide a continuous harvest.

Cultivating Dill

Dill is quite easy to grow and takes a minimal amount of attention. It doesn’t need too much water and seems to do better if it’s kept on the dry side. Fertilizing is unnecessary for dill. The only concern is support for the stems if the plant is not located in a protected spot. If dill is exposed to any wind the tall and fine stems should be staked to keep the stalks upright.

How Dill grows

Dill, a parsley family member, is a biennial grown as an annual with a taproot similar to a carrot. It grows 2-4 feet tall. Dill has finely cut leaves, and numerous deep yellow flowers comprise a flat head with compound umbels. It has a delicate soft feathery look and makes an attractive background for flowers or vegetables. Plants are self-seeding. The seeds scatter as soon as they are ripe and should be picked and dried immediately for winter use.

Temperature
Germination	50 - 70 F
For Growth	Hot
Soil and Water
Fertilizer	Light Feeder
pH	5.5 - 6.5
Water	Average
Measurements
Planting Depth	1/4" - 1/2"
Root Depth	Very long hollow taproot
Height	3-4'
Width	24"
Space between plants
In beds	8 - 12"
in rows	18 - 24"
space between rows	24"
Companions
Companions	None
Incompatibles	None
Harvest
Cut the tender feathery leaves close to the stem Herbs should be cut in the morning after the dew has dried. Do not wash or the aromatic oils will be lost. The flavor of dill foliage is best before the flower seed develops and when used the same day it is cut. If you want to harvest dill seed, let the plant flower and go to seed. Harvest when the lower seeds turn brown and before they scatter. The lower seeds on a head will brown first; the upper ones can dry indoors. Finish drying by tying stems together and hanging them upside down in a cool, dark, dry place, or place them in a paper bag with holes cut in the sides. Sift to remove the seed from the chaff.

Storage Requirements
The leaves wilt quickly upon harvesting, but this will not affect flavor. Spray whole stems lightly with a fine spray of water and wrap loosely in paper towels, and place in a plastic bag. Store in the vegetable bin of your refrigerator. It should last up to a week and perhaps even longer. You can also trim the stems, place in a glass with an inch of cold water, loosely wrap the top with a damp paper towel, and invert a plastic bag over the top before storing it in the refrigerator. Fresh dill sprigs can be frozen for up to 2 months, but be prepared for it to darken a bit in color—no need to thaw it before using. Frozen dill will still have more flavor than dried dill.
Method	Taste
Fresh	Excellent; cuttings last 2-7 days in the fridge
Dried	Fair
Frozen	Good

Harvesting Dill

When to harvest dill

Time from planting to harvest is 70 days for foliage, 90 days for seeds. To harvest, snip off the leaves or young flower heads for use in soups or salads. For pickling, cut whole stalks when the plant is more mature. Gather the mature seeds for planting (although the dill will do its own planting without your help if you leave it alone) or for drying. Dill seeds can be sprouted if they are allowed to dry naturally; store the dried seeds in an airtight jar. Crumble the dried leaves, and store them the same way. For the best flavor, snip the weed with scissors rather than mincing it with a knife.

Dill Pests

Dill, like most herbs, is a good choice for the organic gardener. It’s a member of the parsley family, so you may encounter a parsley caterpillar; hand-pick it off the plant.

Dill Diseases

Dill has no notable problems with diseases.

Where to Grow Garlic

Garlic is an annual or perennial cool-season crop and is hardy to frost and light freezes. Plant cloves in a sunny location in deep, rich, well-drained soil.

Soil for Growing Garlic

Garlic prefers full sun, moist, well-drained soil, and is quite tolerant of various soil types and textures. The preferred texture appears to be a sandy loam that is easily crumbled in hand. It does best when the pH is in the 6.2 to 6.8 range, but it can tolerate a wide range of pH and still produce well. The soil should drain easily, as standing water could cause the bulbs to rot in the ground. As with other root crops, proper preparation of the soil is crucial. The top 6-12 inches should be broken up well, so the roots are free to grow. This is also a good time to mix in some organic matter or manure to improve the soil.

Planting Garlic

When –

Cloves may be planted in either fall or spring, but fall plantings will yield larger bulbs the next summer than spring plantings harvested in fall. Garlic should be planted 4-6 weeks before the last frost date. The plants benefit from having some warm weather to allow good root formation. It is a good sign to see the green shoots come up in late autumn; they can tolerate frigid weather.

Temperature
Germination	60 - 80 F
For Growth	Cool
Soil and Water
Fertilizer	Light Feeder
pH	4.5 - 8.3
Water	Low: For perennial bulbs, withhold all water during summer
Measurements
Planting Depth	1" - 2"
Root Depth	2 - 24"
Height	1 - 3'
Width	6 - 10"
Space between plants
In beds	3"
in rows	4 - 6"
space between rows	12 - 15"
Companions
Companions	Beet, Brassicas, Celery, Chamomile, Fruit Trees, Lettuce, Raspberry, Rose, Savory, Tomato
Incompatibles	Beans, Peas
Harvest
Green garlic shoots, a gourmet treat in many locales, can be cut from the bulbs going to flower and used like scallions. Garlic bulbs are ready to harvest when the tops turn brown and die back. Do not knock the tops down to hasten the harvest; some research indicates this practice will shorten storage life. Withhold water and in a few days, carefully dig to lift the plants up. Be careful not to bruise the bulbs so they won't get moldy or attract insects in storage.

Storage Requirements
Cure bulbs in the sun for up to 2 weeks to harden the skins and dry. To braid, keep the tops on. Otherwise, clip off the dried leaves and root bunches. Store in paper bags, net bags, or nylon stockings, tying a knot between each bulb in the stocking.
Method	Taste
Fresh	Excellent; lasts 6-7 months
Dried	Good as powder, slices, or granules

Cultivating Garlic

Remove any flower buds as soon as they develop. Garlic likes the soil to be moist but not soggy. Regular watering in the fall is essential for proper germination. If dry, watering in the winter may also be required. Stop watering once the bulbs are finishing development to allow bulbs to dry out before harvesting (about 4 weeks before harvest). Like onions, garlic does not compete well with weeds, so it is important to keep the weeds under control with mulch and constant weeding as required.

You could plant ginger using what you find at your local grocery store; some specialty seed catalogs may also carry unique varieties. Colder regions will have to grow their ginger indoors or under some cover, but you can have it out in the garden between zones 7 and 10. Ginger does well in pots and containers, so this should not present much of a problem to those growers in colder regions.

Where to Grow Ginger

Ginger is a perennial herb that likes a warm, humid climate and filtered sunlight. It is a tropical plant but can still be grown in areas that receive light frost if the rhizomes are not exposed to freezing temperatures. Ginger is usually grown from a rhizome (the part you eat) and is often grown in a container to be moved indoors easily when there is danger of frost. If you live in a warm climate (zone 7-10), plant Ginger in a sheltered spot that receives filtered sunlight. Growing ginger in a hoop house or high tunnel may be the best option for those growers in colder regions if available. In colder regions, Ginger would likely do best in full sun. Ginger also does quite well with a hydroponic system.

Soil for Ginger

Ginger likes soil rich with organic matter, free of rocks, and in a location that drains well. Proper hilling is important, so it should either be planted in a trench or have sufficient soil nearby to facilitate hilling. It does best with a soil pH of 5.5 to 6.5. Because the ginger rhizome grows beneath the soil, the soil should be loose, so the rhizome is free to grow.

Planting Ginger

When –

Start sprouting your rhizomes (the part you eat) in late winter, so they will be ready to be transplanted in early spring. Even if your ginger will be grown exclusively indoors, the timing is still important because the plants need to receive summer sunlight.

How –

Ginger can be grown from rhizomes purchased at the grocery store. Look for large pieces with nubs or horns on them; these are the sections that will sprout. To wash off any growth retardant that may have been applied to the rhizomes, soak them in water for a few hours and rinse them well before planting.

Temperature
Germination	71 - 77 F
For Growth	75 - 85F
Soil and Water
Fertilizer	Feed an evenly balanced slow release organic fertilizer (5-5-5) about 6oz/foot every 6-8 weeks.
pH	5.5 - 6.5
Water	Heavy
Measurements
Planting Depth	2" - 4"
Root Depth	<12"
Height	2 - 3'
Width	6 - 12"
Space between plants
in rows	5 - 8"
space between rows	3'
Companions
Companions	Basil, Tomatoes
Incompatibles	Onions, Turnips
Harvest
Harvest baby ginger about 4-6 months after sprouting, mature ginger is generally harvested when the plant dies back in the fall or winter. To harvest dig up the rhizomes.

Storage Requirements
Place ginger in the crisper drawer of your refrigerator for approximately 3 weeks. It can also be wrapped in wax paper and placed in a sealed plastic bag in the freezer for approximately 3 months. Peeled ginger can also be preserved for up to three months in the refrigerator if submerged in a dry sherry. The ginger will absorb a slight wine flavor, and should be avoided in recipes where this would be undesirable.
Method	Taste
Fresh	Excellent
Dried	Good
Frozen	Good

Cultivating Ginger

It’s important to keep the ginger plant moist, especially in the hot summer months. Mulch can be applied to help retain some moisture. The mulch will also retard weed growth, which is important because ginger’s shallow roots are easily disturbed by weeding. Ginger likes crowded spaces, but you may need to divide the plant every couple of years for optimum growth.

If you live in a cooler climate, the plant will need to be moved inside when there is any frost danger. Allow the plant to yellow and trim the leaves off of the plant. Water the soil once a month(or less) to keep the roots viable, and then set the plant out again in the spring when the danger of frost has passed. If the roots are too wet, they will rot. With any luck, the plant should come back the next spring. If stored properly, rhizomes should remain viable for up to 2 years.

Where to Grow Mint

In general, mints are very hardy and can easily be grown almost anywhere in the United States. Plant them from root divisions any time during the growing season.

Soil for Mint

Mints grow well in any soil; they prefer sun but will tolerate partial shade. Don’t fertilize before planting; they will produce more than adequate supply of mint without it.

Planting Mint

When –

Although you can plant mints anytime during the growing season, root divisions will be established faster if planted on a cool, moist day in spring or fall.

How –

Mint varieties grown from seed will not grow “true.” So it’s generally more satisfactory to use root divisions, which can even be purchased in grocery stores these days. An innocuous little plant of mint will wander all over the garden if it gets half a chance, so plant each one in a container that will keep the roots in one place — a two-pound coffee can with both ends removed is good. Space plants two or three inches apart in rows 18 to 24 inches apart.

Cultivating Mint

To contain invasive growth, plant mint in a container from which the bottom has been removed and set into the ground. Don’t fertilize mints; they’ll never miss it. Both peppermint and spearmint prefer moist soil, so they’ll require more watering than the rest of the garden. Keep them evenly moist until root divisions are well established.

Temperature
Germination	60 - 80 F
For Growth	Cool
Soil and Water
Fertilizer	Not necessary
pH	5.6 - 7.5
Water	Above Average
Measurements
Planting Depth	1/4"
Root Depth	2 - 24"
Height	18 - 24"
Width	Sprawling
Space between plants
In beds	12"
in rows	12 - 18"
space between rows	18 - 24"
Companions
Companions	Brassica, Peas, and Tomato can benefit
Incompatibles	Mint is very invasive and should be kept away from other spices; they will absorb a minty flavor also.
Harvest
Basically cut the leaves when needed. A pair of scissors or nipping with fingers both work well. It pays to cut the top leaves first, to encourage the plant to shoot out again further down the stem. Never strip the plant of all it's leaves. Just prior to flowering, cut stems 1" above the soil. you can harvest mint 2-3 times in one growing season.

Storage Requirements
Store fresh mint leaves in a plastic bag in the refrigerator. Leaves can be finely chopped and mixed with a small amount of olive oil to be frozen. Dry entire branches in a slow oven, a food dehydrator, or hang in a warm, dry and dark place. Store in airtight jars in a dark place for the best flavor retention.
Method	Taste
Fresh	Excellent
Dried	Fair
Frozen	Good

How Mint grows

Mint is a tall (2-3′), shallow-rooted, fast-spreading perennial with square stems and leaves that usually have a purple tinge. It is very prolific—once you set them in a corner of the garden, they’ll quietly take over. Its roots spread freely, so it is commonly contained in a pot or physical barrier. Its long spear-like leaves are slightly curled and deeply veined and have a refreshing, clean aroma. Vegetative cuttings usually propagate the plant. The light lavender flowers appear in terminal spikes (2-4″ long) and bloom through most of the growing season. You may also come across varieties like golden apple mint, which has a more delicate flavor than spearmint. This plant also has pale purple flowers, but the leaves are dark green streaked with gold. Orange mint, sometimes known as bergamot mint, gets its name from its delicate scent of oranges. Orange mint has reddish-green leaves edged with purple; the flowers are lavender.

Serving ideas: Oregano is an essential ingredient in many Italian dishes. It is the most common spice for pizza, and in general, goes well with any tomato-based dish. It also combines well with basil. Try it with cooked vegetables, potato salad, fowl, stuffing, soups, scrambled eggs, and omelets.

Where to Grow Oregano

Oregano can be grown anywhere in the United States from root divisions or seed planted early in spring. In general, it is a sprawling herb and is not well suited for growing indoors.

Soil for Oregano

Oregano prefers light, well-drained, slightly alkaline soil with full sun. Just like most herbs, a rich and moist soil weakens the flavor and aroma. Also, oregano should not be fertilized if grown for its flavor or aroma. Fertilizing oregano will allow the plant to produce an abundance of flavorless foliage.

Planting Oregano

When –

Start seedlings 6-8 weeks before the last frost date for your area. Plan on planting the seedlings outside on the average last day of frost, when they are about 3″ high. They can be planted outdoors earlier with some protection from the cold.

How –

Seeds tend to germinate slowly, and in addition, expect at least 25% of the seeds to be duds. They will germinate more consistently in controlled conditions, such as a windowsill or greenhouse. You shouldn’t plan on storing your seeds for an extended period of time, as the germination rate will decline rapidly with additional storage time. Seeds can be directly planted in the ground in spring or started indoors in seed flats to be transferred outdoors when ready. Don’t forget to harden off young seedlings for a week or so to get them accustomed to the outdoor temperature variation and sunlight intensity.

Temperature
Germination	60 - 70 F
For Growth	Cool
Soil and Water
Fertilizer	Not necessary
pH	6.0 - 8.0
Water	Below Average
Measurements
Planting Depth	1/4"
Root Depth	14"+
Height	24 - 30"
Width	20 - 24"
Space between plants
In beds	12"
in rows	6 - 12"
space between rows	12 - 18"
Companions
Companions	Cucumber, Melons, Pepper, Pumpkins, Squash
Incompatibles	None
Harvest
The leaves can be cut once the plant reaches a total height of about 6". Cut the stems down to a few inches above the soil. To prolong the harvest, cut the flower buds off as they appear.

Storage Requirements
Oregano is most commonly used dried. Hang bunches, then store in airtight containers away from direct sunlight.
Method	Taste
Fresh	Excellent
Dried	Good
Frozen	Good

Culturing Oregano

Keep oregano plants on the dry side. Newly planted oregano may require some irrigation, but once established, it will require very little water. As with most other herbs, fertilizing will reduce the production of essential oils, which gives the distinctive flavor and aroma of oregano. It should not be fertilized at all if grown as a culinary herb. Old woody branches that become leggy (more stem than leaf) should be cut out at the end of winter, and plants should be replaced every five years to prevent legginess. The lifespan of oregano is about five or six years, and usually, one harvest is done in the first year and two in the following years.

Storage Requirements
Store fresh parsley in the refrigerator in a perforated plastic bag. Wash it first, as it could be earthy, sandy, or very damp. If it is wilted, sprinkle it lightly with water before refrigerating it; or if you have washed it avoid drying it completely. Although parsley freezes well (without blanching), it loses it's crispness; use it raw. Store dried parsley in an airtight container kept in a cool, dark, dry place. You can dry most herbs by tying them in small bundles and hanging them up with a string. Hang them upside down to dry. When completely dry, remove stems and put in jars. They will keep all winter and beyond. They can also be dried in a slow oven (100F) or a food dehydrator.
Method	Taste
Fresh	Excellent; cuttings last 2-7 days in the refrigerator
Dried	Fair
Frozen	Good

Harvesting Parsley

When to Harvest Parsley

Parsley is ready to cut or harvest in about 70 to 90 days after planting. A 10-foot row of parsley will keep you and all your neighbors well supplied. Harvest parsley leaves any time during the growing season; cut them off at the plant’s base. Parsley is not affected by hard frosts, and if protected, it can be harvested all winter long. Otherwise, it will die back in the winter and be best to harvest before winter fully sets in. Parsley will generally retain its rich color until early winter.

How to Harvest Parsley

To harvest or cut parsley leaves, cut the stems off at the bottom of the plant. If you only want a few leaves, it is recommended that you pick leaves from the outside. This allows new leaves to grow from the middle of the plant and harvests the older growth. Many gardeners harvest the entire parsley plant in fall and dry it; you can also bring the whole plant inside for the winter and make it a houseplant. Parsley lends itself well to freezing and drying. Store the dried leaves in an airtight container.