The AeroGarden is one of the simplest and easiest ways to get started with hydroponics. The rest of this page will describe in detail the aerogarden appearance and functionality. Additional links on this site will eventually describe a variety of systems, and cover detailed instructions on how to build a system yourself that suits your needs. The seed pods are prepackaged, so the only maintenance required is to fill up with water every two weeks, and throw in two nutrient tablets. The bulbs will need to be replaced every 6 months to maximize growth. The AeroGarden monitors all of this and will blink its lights to indicate some care is needed.

The AeroGarden after unpacking and setup: The model used in this description is the AeroGarden Pro 200. It was chosen because of the ability for the light to extend high above the base, as seen in the following image. The system was a breeze to set up, I can not understand how anyone would have any difficulties with something like this.

The seeds come in their own box, prearranged as they should be in the Aerogarden. The individual seed pods house the grow sponge, which is brown in appearance and looks very much like a sponge made of dirt. There are certainly a wide variety of hydroponic growing mediums available from third party vendors. More to come on this topic later on. The pod which houses the grow sponge is probably worth keeping though, as the diameter and height of the medium with respect to the water reservoir is somewhat important. The seeds appear to be glued in place near the top of the seed opening in the grow sponge, which is only about 1/4 inch deep. I would imagine if planting your own plants, you could just drop them in the hole. If they are of the slow germinating variety, it may pay to glue them using some sort of non-toxic glue to the top of the grow sponge to avoid any mildew or rot from starting under the moist conditions that are ideal for germination. Once the seeds are planted, place one of these domes over the top to keep the moisture level up. These domes also came with the kit, and are probably worth keeping. The finished seed pods can now be placed in the grow surface.

The grow surface appears to basically be a table at first glance, with obvious holes cut in the top for the seed pods. A closer inspection reveals a sponge-like filter material at the base, which filters particles from the water sucked in by the circulating pump. This pump is what actually delivers the water and nutrients to your plant roots, and appears to be located in the central support. The water is drawn up from the central base of the stand and is distributed with a network of channels attached to the underside of the growing surface.

A small spout is clearly visible, and when operational, is where the nutrient-rich water solution is delivered directly to each seed pod. The rate of water flow is steady when on, and comparable to a small constant trickle from your faucet. Look at the image for a good idea of what I am referring to. The same is true for each seed pod.

AeroGarden Lights

The AeroGarden Pro 200 uses three compact fluorescent bulbs (CFL) with a full spectrum output, which closely mimics the natural sunlight found outdoors. The reflector in the lamp hood directs a majority of the light down towards the plants. Each bulb is rated for 26 Watts and outputs 1560 lumens, and the total output is 78 watts and 4680 lumens over an area of approximately 16×9 inches or 1 square foot. The bulbs do have a specialized socket likely intended to prevent users from purchasing less expensive bulbs from a third party supplier. There are similar bulbs available from third parties, but the cost savings doesn’t really justify the risk, they are only 20-25% cheaper, and would need to be shipped in, when the standard AeroGarden bulbs can probably be picked up locally. If you are still interested check out the Lights of America website, and look at their replacement bulbs; model number 9024B was intended for some sort of desk light and looks pretty similar. If anyone has any success, please let me know.

The lights are on a timer, and are on approximately 18 hours, and off for 6, which does vary slightly from different types of plants as well as through the plant’s growing cycle. The herb setting will keep the lights on for an 18/6 schedule for germination, and will switch to a 17/7 schedule as the plants mature, which is the ideal setting for herbs. The frequency which the pump turns on also changes. For the herb setting, the pump moves water through the seed pods 12 hours a day, while the lights are on. There are 6 hours each day when the lights are on, but the pump is not running. As the plants mature they will need more water and nutrients, so the pump will run continuously during the initial growth and mature growth phases. The Pro 200 does allow for a 24-hour setting, allowing the lights and pump to be constantly on, to maximize growth, called the Super Grow setting. There is a switch on the control panel to allow for manual manipulation of the lights. They will resume their schedule (on or off) at the next regularly programmed time. The system puts off a fair amount of light, and would not be suitable in most people’s bedrooms. It does make a good night strong night light in the kitchen or bathroom. Power to the lights is supplied from the base via a standard figure 8 cord, which allows a great deal of flexibility. A standard light timer could be used to control the on/off times for the lights, and according to the manual, the pump will not operate if the lights are off. The control duration the lights and/or pump are on overtime, so in order to replicate that your timers should be adjusted occasionally as needed.

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Aeroponics is extremely efficient in the use of both water/nutrients and energy, and for this reason, has been investigated by NASA as a means of producing plants in space, and potentially on the surface of the moon and/or mars. It generally is not well suited to commercial production of fruit-producing plants such as tomato, cucumber, and peppers; it is however well suited for herbs, lettuce, and strawberries. Basil might be the most popular example of widely available, aeroponically grown produce. Aeroponics is the preferred method to grow herbs when the roots are the harvested portion. It also is particularly useful in the propagation of plants from cuttings (cloning), some difficult to clone plants produce very good results in an aeroponic system. Because of the hardware investment and time required for maintenance, aeroponic growing has relatively few commercial applications. Aeroponics is brought to the average consumer in an automated prepackaged form marketed under the name AeroGarden (see page for detailed description).

It is the lack of a growing medium that distinguishes aeroponics from other forms of hydroponics. The roots are typically suspended in a closed or semi-closed environment, and are periodically bathed in a mist or fog based nutrient solution. The mist provides all of the water and nutrients for the plant to thrive. One of the attractive growing features of aeroponics is that the roots are constantly suspended in the air, and therefore are continuously exposed to ample quantities of oxygen. The roots should be exposed to oxygen something like 99% of the time.

The first factor influencing the effectiveness of an aeroponic system is the droplet size. Small droplets tend to stick to the roots better, allowing the plant to absorb the nutrients it needs; large droplets have a tendency to coalesce and fall to the reservoir below, and restrict oxygen to the root system. A very fine mist will produce excessive root hair without developing a lateral root system required for sustained growth. The droplets of nutrient solution are can be made using sprayers, misters, foggers, or ultrasonic nebulizers. The droplets are typically formed by forcing the stream of liquid through a small nozzle. The smaller the nozzle opening, the smaller the droplets. Greater pressure is required for smaller nozzles though, and particles dissolved in the solution could clog very small nozzles, or leave deposits on the ultrasonic foggers. NASA funded research has determined that high pressure mist of 5-50 micrometer droplets are necessary for long term aeroponic growth.

The second significant factor influencing the effectiveness of an aeroponic system is the frequency of the misting. The combination of droplet size and misting frequency are correlated. In most applications, a compromise is made to accommodate a larger droplet size in order to take advantage of using a lower pressure. Plants with a large leaf surface area could wilt even under a continuous fine mist sprayed on their roots. For this reason, a shallow pool of nutrient solution is typically allowed to collect at the bottom of the chamber where the tips of the roots can likely uptake sufficient water to keep them from wilting.

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How –

Seed should be sown thinly (12 to 15 seeds per foot) in rows 12-18 inches apart. This will encourage thickly developed plants—closer spacing results in smaller heads, which may be preferable for small families. Because the seed is so small, it can be mixed with sand to avoid excessive thinning once the seed has germinated. It is not recommended to broadcast seed because there will not be sufficient spacing for the plants to develop quality grains.

Amaranth seedlings can easily be blocked from emergence by a thin crust on the soil formed after a rain. Selecting soils that are lower in clay and managing the seedbed to minimize the chance of crusting can help ensure a good harvest.

How Amaranth Grows

Amaranth is very easy to grow. It is fairly maintenance-free, but its slow initial growth leaves it susceptible to competition among weeds until it is established. Amaranth prefers a warm climate, full sun, and well-drained soil. It will grow tall and can top 5 feet high. Flowers are produced on long straight stems, are long-lasting, and will bloom from mid-summer until the first hard frost.

Cultivating Amaranth

Amaranth resembles lamb’s quarters and a red rooted pigweed (especially in the early stages of growth), so it is best to plant in rows to simplify weeding. Growing amaranth varieties that have purple or red leaves also simplifies weeding. Amaranth appears to be fairly slow-growing at first, but it can be very drought tolerant once established. It can successfully be grown in areas with less than 10 inches of yearly rainfall. Once the plants reach about one foot in height, they start growing rapidly and quickly shade out any remaining weeds. Amaranth is a fairly low maintenance crop, but care should be taken early to ensure they stand a good chance of establishing. Removing the amaranth plant’s terminal buds will help encourage branching and develop a larger percentage of tender young shoots for salad greens.

An easy way to gather the grain is to bend the plants over a bucket and rub the seedheads between your hands. This method may take a little longer to do, but there won’t be as much chaff and debris to sort out later. Only the dehydrated seeds will come out this way, so do a second harvest a week or so later to catch any remaining seeds that were not ready the first time. We like to rub the flower heads onto a screen set on a wheelbarrow. The finer chaff can then be blown off the screen. In our experience, cutting and hanging plants indoors does not work very well. The plants become extremely bristly, and it becomes difficult to separate the seed from the chaff.

After harvesting, it is important to dry your crop further to ensure it won’t grow mold in storage. It can be left on trays in the hot sun or placed near an indoor heat source. Stir occasionally until it is as dry as possible—store seeds in an air-tight container in a cool, dry place. Amaranth grain is fairly high in fat and can go rancid eventually. The best way to store it is in the fridge, in a tightly sealed container. The grain should last up to 6 months this way.

Amaranth Pests

• Tarnished plant bug – congregate around the growing seed heads, and by sucking the fluid out, they can stunt the seed production.
• Amaranth weevil- The weevils are a 2-stage threat with the larvae chewing on the roots and the adults going after the leaves.

Amaranth Diseases

Disease is seldom a problem with Amaranth.

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Where to Grow Arugula

Arugula is also known as roquette or rocket and adds a delightful nip to salads. It is generally mixed in with other salad greens that complement its strong flavor. It is rich in vitamin C and potassium. Some describe it’s flavor as peppery, some as tangy or just nutty. Arugula is a member of the cabbage family, so keep it in with other cabbage family plants in your crop rotation. Arugula, like other brassicas, is a cool-season crop hardy to frosts and light freezes.

Recommended Varieties of Arugula

• Astro – Compared to most varieties, Astro is ready to harvest a few days earlier and has a milder flavor.
• Rocket – Another early variety, Rocket bears leaves with a spicy, peppery flavor.
• Sylvetta – Also known as wild arugula, Sylvetta is a smaller, slower growing, and more pungently flavored variety. Its edible flowers are yellow rather than white. Sylvetta is often used in mesclun mixes. The wild arugula varieties tend to have more prominent stems.

Soil for Arugula

Arugula will grow almost anywhere. To provide the best possible growing conditions prepare the soil by working in some finished compost in the top 3 inches of soil.

Planting Arugula

When –

Plant seeds outdoors in spring as soon as the soil can be worked. Make additional plantings every three weeks as long as the cool weather lasts. For winter harvests, sow seeds in mid-fall.

How –

Dig a shallow trench with the tip of your garden spade to mark the row where you would like to plant the arugula. Sprinkle the seeds from the packet into the trench trying to space the seedlings out by somewhere between 1/4″ and 1″. If you want to harvest full-sized leaves, increase the spacing, or thin the plants out once they are established. Plant in rows approximately 6 inches apart. Cover lightly with soil, the arugula seeds need light to germinate. If they are deeply buried, they will not germinate.

How Arugula Grows

Arugula is a hardy plant and does not have any strong preferences with regard to growing conditions. It can be grown in any well-drained fairly fertile spot or container. Arugula prefers cool weather and is frost hardy enough that it will bear right through winter in a cold frame or unheated greenhouse. The arugula plant is grown as a longer leaved open lettuce. It is small, with a compact root system, so it is easy to grow in containers or in a flat on a sunny windowsill. It is also good for intercropping between longer season plants.

Arugula Pests

• Flea Beetles – Will attack young members of the cabbage family, and arugula is no exception. This can be prevented by covering with a floating row cover
• Cabbage worms – Pick cabbage works off as soon as you see them to minimize damage.

Arugula Diseases

• Downy Mildew –A fungal pathogen that infects foliage. Avoid succession plantings of brassica plants in close proximity and proper crop rotation and cleanup of leftover brassica plant matter. The fungus requires brassica host tissue to survive and produce spores.
• Bacterial Leaf Spot – A pathogen that affects foliage. Avoiding succession plantings of brassica plants in close proximity and proper crop rotation will help prevent this disease. The bacterial may persist for several months on undecomposed host debris.

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Soil for Asparagus

Since asparagus is a perennial vegetable and can produce for up to 30-50 years, it is very important to prepare the soil properly. The best soil is sandy, well-drained loam, heavily enriched with well-rotted manure and compost. Ground prepared in this way dries out quickly in early spring, to spur the early growth of the spears. The pH should be about 7.5. Average garden soil, however, will support a good asparagus crop, provided it drains well. Rocky New England soil will hamper the development of strait spears. Fertilization application: 4 pounds of 5-10-10 per 100 square feet, or generous quantities of bone meal or ground phosphate rock and wood ash. Asparagus craves phosphorus, which is usually abundant in composted manure and kitchen waste compost. If you can fit it in your gardening schedule, prepare the asparagus bed in the late summer or fall to be ready for planting the following spring. This provides a chance to plant a nitrogen-fixing green manure crop like buckwheat. Asparagus has a pretty good appetite for nitrogen.

Choose a spot that is free of perennial weeds and grasses.

Planting Asparagus

As soon as the ground can be worked. Plan on an average of 10 plants per person. Plant in a sunny spot protected from the wind. It can tolerate some shade but is most productive in full sun. There is not a lot of surface area on asparagus’s delicate fern-like foliage, so it needs all the sun it can get.

How to Grow Asparagus

Slow way

Planting asparagus from seed has some advantages and disadvantages. It is a little bit more work, but typically costs much less also. The biggest disadvantage is you will have to wait an extra year to harvest your first spears. The crowns you would purchase at your local nursery are already 1 year old, so they would start producing that much faster.

Asparagus seeds can be started indoors, or sown directly in the garden. Asparagus seeds started indoors should be started in 4-inch pots approximately 3 months before the last frost. They will germinate best at daytime temperatures at around 75-80 F and a low temperature at night of around 65F. It may take as long as 3 weeks for the asparagus seeds to germinate. To hasten germination, soak the seed for 48 hours in water prior to planting. Sow the seeds approximately 1/2″ to 3/4″ deep in rows approximately 2 feet wide. Seedlings should be transplanted or thinned to a minimum of 3-4 inches between plants. These seedlings should grow for a summer, and the following year the ‘yearlings’ should be transplanted to the permanent asparagus bed. Follow the directions below for transplanting asparagus crowns.

Fast way –

Buy year old plants or ‘crowns’ from the seed store or your local nursery. They will have compact buds with masses of supple dangling roots. Asparagus crowns should be planted in the springtime for cooler regions, about the same time daffodils are in bloom. In very warm regions, asparagus should be planted in the fall or winter. Plants are set out in trenches dug to a depth of 6-8 inches and spaced 2-4 feet apart, in the prepared soil bed. Mound the soil to the side of each trench, as it will be used to back-fill as the asparagus grow. Set the asparagus crowns in the base of the trench with 18 inches between the plants, and cover with about 2 inches of soil. As the asparagus tips grow the trenches will be filled in gradually until they are completely filled by the end of the summer. Asparagus plants have a tendency to rise as they grow mature, hence the need for the trenching method of planting.

How Asparagus Grows

The roots will spread horizontally rather than down, and in years to come will produce a thick mat of roots and underground shoots. The first year after planting the spears will be spindly and thin. As they mature, they develop into tall, ferny branches quite lovely to see. The true asparagus leaves have been reduced to the triangular scales on the spears which are cut off when the asparagus is cut for cooking.

Cultivating Asparagus

Weeds are the biggest problem with asparagus since they offer too much competition for the developing shoots, and in an untidy asparagus patch, they can develop very quickly. Any weeds in the asparagus patch will divert nutrients away from the asparagus and affect its yield and longevity. Companion plants can also be considered weeds since they will also divert nutrients away from the asparagus. Use them sparingly, if at all. Frequent hand weeding early and often is the best way to control weeds, especially in the first two/three years of growth. Frequent cultivation and light mulching with grass clippings, or hay are good preventatives. First cultivation should be in early spring, before the spears appear above ground. At this time, lightly apply fertilizer, preferably well-rotted manure, to each plant, and continue cultivation until the tops have grown too high and thick to manage with a shallow hoe. Also, watering is extremely important any time there is a lack of adequate rainfall during the growing season.

The ferny top growth of asparagus is actually producing food for the shoots below in much the same manner as bulb foliage renews a bulb underground for next spring’s flower. For this reason, asparagus foliage should not be cut down too soon near the end of the season but should be allowed to wither off naturally. The thick growth of asparagus ferns or brush that covers the bed in late summer and early fall will turn brown and brittle at the end of the growing season. In early to mid-fall after several hard freezes, cut this brush and add it to the compost pile to interrupt the life cycles of insects and diseases. This is a good time to add soil amendments if necessary, and spread a 3-inch layer of compost followed by a thick (6″) layer of straw to protect the asparagus crowns from winter damage and allow soil organisms to continue improving the soil in both the fall and spring.

Fertilizer for Asparagus

As far as vegetables go, asparagus has a pretty big appetite for fertilizer. Asparagus needs to produce enough energy to survive the winter, feed us, and then produce a few new ferns. It may be possible to overfeed asparagus, but it isn’t easy. To ensure a steady supply of nutrients for the plants and keep soil organisms busy loosening and aerating the soil, apply a thick layer of weed-free compost topped with three inches of straw, rotted sawdust, or mulch after harvesting is complete, and again in the fall after cleanup. This will help to encourage succulent spears the next spring. Clean spears will push up through the mulch in the spring, there is no need to remove any leftover mulch in the spring.

Asparagus Pests

• Asparagus beetles are the main pest that damages asparagus fronds. There are two common species, the common asparagus beetle (black, white, and red-orange) and the spotted asparagus beetle (red-orange with black spots), both of which are about 1/3 inch long. They can effectively be hand-picked from the plants when found, look for them in the morning when it is too cool for them to fly. The beetles overwinter in the plant debris, so removing fronds in winter will reduce their numbers eventually. Lady beetles and several small wasp species are major asparagus beetle predators that are naturally occurring.
• Asparagus beetle eggs look like stubby brown hairs. Wipe them off the spears with a damp cloth. Asparagus beetle larvae are soft, grey, slug-like creatures with blackheads that are unable to crawl back up into position if swept off the plants. Many gardeners allow their chickens to pick through the asparagus beds for 3-5 days over winter to eliminate any leftover beetles. If you have a problem and don’t raise poultry, setup a spring trap crop. Don’t cut the spears in spring within this plot, and patrol often to collect as many adult asparagus beetles as possible. In late summer cut the fronds 2 inches from the ground and compost them. In three weeks or so, you can harvest a fall crop of spears from your trap crop plot.

Diseases for Asparagus

Rust has been virtually eliminated by the development of rust resistant varieties.

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Basil comes in a range of varieties, from purple to lime green, curly to ruffled-edged leaves, and smooth to hairy leaves. Often referred to as sweet basil, this annual grows up to 2 feet tall. Its leaves are very fragrant with a rich, mildly spicy, mint/clove flavor. Use fresh leaves for maximum flavor in tomato sauces, salads, vinegars, teas, and eggs, and on lamb, fish and poultry; it is generally added at the last moment, as cooking quickly destroys the flavor. Add dry leaves to potpourris and sachets. Other species of basil vary in color, form, flavor, and fragrance.

How Basil Grows

Basil is quickly started from seed, and grows as high as 2 feet tall. It has large, oval-shaped, shiny leaves and small white flowers that bloom in clusters. The leaves are typically light green and soft textured with square stems and opposite leaves. Basil may also have either green or purple-red, soft-textured leaves, and spikes of small whitish or lavender flowers. Flowers in general are small, white and appear in spikes.

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Pole Beans: Germination in 8 to 14 days. Set 3 rough barked, 6-foot poles in the ground, tepee fashion, and tie together at the top. Leave 3 to 4 feet between the pole groups. Make a hill at the base of each pole, enriched with compost or well-rotted manure, and plant 6-8 seeds in each. After the second pair of true leaves appear, thin to 3 plants per pole. With regular harvesting, the pole beans should bear all summer.
Harvest: 65 days.

Cultivation for Beans

Keep rows weed-free with shallow cultivation or heavy mulching; beans are shallow-rooted, and should not be cultivated deeply. Never work around beans after a rainfall or in the early morning when the leaves are still wet from dew. The plants are susceptible to rust, which spreads when the foliage is wet. Water weekly and deeply during dry spells, as beans need constant soil moisture to develop properly. Feed pole varieties by working a thin band of 5-10-5 or 4-12-12 around each hill, once at planting time and again as beans start to form. In addition, pinch off the growing tips of pole beans when plants reach the top of their support system.

Bean Diseases

Bean seed is often pretreated before sale with Captan, a fungicide that protects the seed from germination in wet weather.

• Anthracnose: Clean up after crop is harvested. Never work around wet beans, and buy quality seed.
• Bacterial blight: Clean up after crop is harvested. Never work around wet beans, and buy quality seed.
• Mosaic: Select resistant varieties.
• Downy mildew: Do not grow in foggy regions.

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Where to Grow Beets

Beets are an annual cool-season crop, half-hardy to frost and light freezes. They thrive in all parts of the country. Beets are closely related to spinach and chard, and once called “blood turnips” because of their bright red juice. Growing beets will provide delicious colorful roots and nutritious greens. Most beets are open-pollinated and multi-germ, where one seed yields a clump of 4-5 plants that need to be thinned. These “seed balls” germinate better if soaked an hour before planting.

Beet Varieties

Yellow and white beets tend to be sweeter than red varieties, and the best beets to use with other roasted vegetables because they don’t bleed red juice. Storage beets are beet varieties that excel when grown for fall harvest followed by winter storage in the refrigerator or root cellar. Newer hybrids are usually sweeter than older varieties and offer more green leaves. Most beets contain 5-8% sugar, where newer hybrids such as Big Red run 12-14%. There are also some special varieties of forage or mangel-wurzel beets that are typically fed to livestock, whose roots can weigh as much as 20 pounds each. In general search for varieties that are resistant to bolting and downy mildew. Beets tend to get tough, woody, and develop an off-flavor in hot weather, so plan on harvesting in early summer or fall. If you have hot summers, choose a variety that matures in 45-60 days.

Recommended varieties:

Detroit Dark Red; Early Wonder; Ruby Queen; Firechief; Burpee’s Golden, an unusual beet with sweet golden flesh that does not bleed when cooked; Long Season, a slow-growing long beet, roughly shaped and harvested in early fall or for winter storage.

Soil for Beets

Beets grow well in average garden soil. The best crop is achieved with pH 6.5 in a rich, sandy loam prepared with well-rotted manure and compost to a depth of 8 inches. Beets do not thrive if the pH is below 5.8. The soil should be well pulverized to remove stones and clods so that roots form well and rapidly.

Planting Beets

Germination should occur in 5 to 10 days if seeds are kept sufficiently moist. Plan on an average of 10-20 plants per person.

When –

Beets are hardy and may be sown as soon as the ground can be worked. Beet seeds can germinate in cool soil, but they sprout best when soil temperatures are above 50 degrees Fahrenheit. They should be planted directly in the garden one month before your last spring frost. For succession crops, plantings can be made every 2 weeks to mid-summer. Beets can become tough and stringy if grown in hot weather during droughts; ample water supply is essential to succulent roots. A late summer crop can be sown for fall harvest, start planting them 10 to 12 weeks before the last fall frost.

How –

Sow seed 1/2 inch deep in rows 12-18 inches apart. The beet seed is a compact ball of many tiny seeds. Many plants germinate where each seed is sown, so seed should be placed sparingly. When seedlings are 4-6 inches high, thin plants to stand 1 1/2 inches apart. (They can be used in salad or cooked as spinach.) Then, as these beets grow to about an inch in diameter, pull every other one to allow larger beets to grow.

How Beets Grow

Red table beets develop leaves with red stems and leaf veins similar to red-leafed chard varieties. The leaves can be used as a spinach substitute. Beets grow best when temperatures average 65 degrees, so early plantings will grow faster if covered with a row cover. Beetroots naturally push up out of the ground as they mature, and this exposed portion of the beet can cause the shoulders of white or yellow beets to become green and tough and should be mulched to avoid this problem. Beets will typically produce edible greens in 35 days, followed by cylindrical roots a month later.

Cultivation for Beets

The rows should be cultivated shallowly halfway through growth periods to keep weeds down, or the rows may be heavily mulched to keep them weed-free. Initial plantings will need to be thinned, because of the multiple plants that grow from one seed. An additional thinning when the roots reach a diameter of 1 inch to a spacing of 4 inches between plants will enable the roots to reach their full potential size.

Pests for Beets

None of major concern.

Diseases for Beets

None of major concern

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How Broccoli Grows

The plant grows relatively erect, to 4 feet tall, with long, narrow, dark green leaves. As the harvest nears, a thickened cluster appears at the top of the stalk, which is actually a flower head. When it is cut off for harvest, side shoots will continue to develop for several weeks.

Harvesting Broccoli

60-80 days from plants. The first crop will be the central flower head, which resembles a green cauliflower. Cut it off with a sharp knife at an angle to a 4-6 inch stem, be sure to leave some leaves on the stalk, as many types will then produce side shoots from the leaf axis. Try to cut the head off at an angle, to help ensure water can not gather on the newly cut stem which leads to rot and disease. Be sure the head is cut before it cracks apart and separates; otherwise, the plant will quickly flower and go to seed. When the terminal flower head is cut off, smaller side shoots will develop a continual harvest. Homegrown broccoli will most likely not grow heads as large as supermarket varieties.

Broccoli Pests

• Same for cabbage
• Root Maggot – Place 3-inch tar paper squares around each seedling when transplanting to cover the soil areas; or keep the ground dusted with wood ash.
• Cabbage butterflies/worms – controlling cabbage worms is surprisingly easy. Cover susceptible crops with a floating row cover when planting and leave it in place until harvest.
• Cutworms – Use stiff paper collars around transplants to extend at least 1 inch below the soil line.
• Flea beetles – Dust with wood ash or flour dust.

Diseases for Broccoli

• Same for cabbage
• Soil fungicides are somewhat effective on broccoli diseases, but they are expensive, sold in large quantity, and not practical for small home garden use, unless a great deal of broccoli is grown.
• Clubroot fungus – Most frequent in soggy or acidic soil. Grow only in well-drained soil; follow crop rotation practices; lime to keep soil pH at a neutral 7.
• Yellows – A soil-borne diseases; choose resistant varieties.
• Black rot – Bacteria born on seed; buy only from reputable seed dealers or bedding plant growers; rotate crops.
• Blackleg – Bacteria spreads from infected plants, garden tools, and leftover debris. Follow crop rotation.

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Cultivating Brussels Sprouts

Keep weed-free with shallow cultivation or heavy mulching. Grow in the same manner as all cabbage family plants. As soon as the lower sprouts begin to mature, pinch out the growing shoot at the top of each plant (not the entire top leaf). This will stop the top from growing and encourage the sprouts to ripen along the stalk.

Pests for Brussels Sprouts

• Same for cabbage
• Root Maggot -Place 3-inch tar paper squares around each seedling when transplanting to cover the soil areas; or keep the ground dusted with wood ash.
• Cabbage butterflies/worms -controlling cabbage worms is surprisingly easy.  Cover susceptible crops with a floating row cover when planting and leave it in place until harvest.
• Cutworms – Use stiff paper collars around transplants to extend at least 1 inch below the soil line.
• Flea beetles – Dust with wood ash or flour dust.

Diseases for Brussels Sprouts

• Same for cabbage
• Soil fungicides are somewhat effective on Brussels Sprout diseases, but they are expensive, sold in large quantities, and not practical for small home garden use unless a great deal of Brussels Sprouts are grown.
• Clubroot fungus – Most frequent in soggy or acid soil. Grow only in well-drained soil; follow crop rotation practices; lime to keep soil pH at a neutral 7.
• Yellows – A soil-born disease; choose resistant varieties.
• Black rot – Bacteria born on seed; buy only from reputable seed dealers or bedding plant growers; rotate crops.
• Blackleg – Bacteria spreads from infected plants, garden tools, and leftover debris. Follow crop rotation.

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